| take
a bite out of crowds, a short story.
Posted by
bobby
on
1/5/2002, 8:21 pm
67.192.171.206
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I am come to Oahu from Topsail, doing my time for uncle sam, I'm
stoked, but today was different than most, I went out at a new
break I found, an out of the way spot on the NE corner, it catches
the swell wrap from the north shore on bigger days, and goes
offshore during Kona winds...where I live the Kona's are onshore
and make the waves choppy..today was one of those days. Now I have
been looking at this spot for about a week and I wanted to paddle
out each time, just to check it, but it has been kinda too big for
me to paddle out at a new reef break and not know the ins and
outs, plus I have always been by myself when checking it. Having
someone out with you, especially here, to push you and help you if
you need it is smart I think, well today the swell finally
dropped, about head high, and not too consistent, time to check it
out, so I paddled out on my longboard, really only hoping to find
the peak and check out the reef, if I caught a few good ones,
great, it was such a nice day....I win either way, I also thought
the next time I would know the place a little better, and I would
charge a little harder. It would be a lot safer, and I would feel
more comfortable...So I go out, its a long paddle to this spot,
200 yrds maybe, but easy paddle through the channel. On the way, I
see the other surfers catching some good ones, I finally get to
the line up, sit up on my board and who should paddle by but Ken
Bradshaw, wow, cool, I thought, this was a first for me over here,
I have been out with Ben at Masonboro a long time ago, but that
was all...I watched Mr. Bradshaw and everyone else just ripping
and it wasn't long until a wave came my way, I was in good
position sitting close to the channel on the lefts, this break was
a long right, but no channel over there, so you got worked if you
got caught inside after a ride, the left I was on was a shorter
but after the ride it was easy paddle back out on my 9'0. There
were only about 10 guys out, most on shortboards taking the longer
rights, after about 45 min of catching a few good ones, feeling
pretty good, I catch a right and it was soo sweet. I paddle back
out, got worked like I knew I would, but who cares it was a good
ride. Then, I see these 3 guys drop in on the same, nice, overhead
right. The one guy who got burned in the very back, by the other 2
rippers, kicked out and Mr. Bradshaw was right there sitting on
his board, the guy who kicked out, I'll call him Joe, was his
friend, Joe and Mr. Bradshaw started talking and Joe picked out
one of the guys who cut him off on his way back out and started
yelling at the guy, but I didn't really hear all of that, I was
about 20 yrds away, but I definitely heard Mr. Bradshaw, he got
involved, and he just snapped, he yelled something, then started
paddling toward the guy, I thought he was going to punch him, the
guy sat strong on his board until Mr. Bradsahw got right there,
then the guy jumped off his board and started swimming away, Mr.
Bradshaw, was just yelling, cussing, pulling on the guys leash and
board, everyone in the line up was staring, and I was too, then
all of a sudden, Mr. Bradshaw grabbed the guys board by the rail,
and bit it, he bit it and then threw it at the guy, the poor
fellow, just grabbed his board and paddled in..Mr. Bradshaw then
turned around and went back to the peak, and started ripping
again, I just sat there with my mouth wide open for a while, I had
read that he did that somewhere, but it was a trip to see. After
about an hour most everyone went in and I caught my share, I left
feeling beat, satisfied, and thinking what an unusual session....
a very long but true story...thanks.
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